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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family totally shocked.

“I am totally shocked,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.